How to Join a Metal Carport Roof to a Shingle Roof
By William Machin
The point where a metal carport roof joins to a shingle roof is known as the transition. To ensure against water intrusion, it’s necessary to install a transition flashing along the line where the two roofs meet. To do this, courses of shingles are removed, then the final sections of metal roofing are set in place before the flashing is installed. The last step is reinstalling shingles across the transition. Taking care when you remove the shingles limits the amount of replacement materials and labor needed to do the job.
Hold the end of a chalk line at one of the outermost, top corners of the carport roof frame. String the line along the top of the frame until it meets the shingle roof. Mark this point of the transition with a marking crayon. Repeat this step at the opposite side of the roof frame and mark the opposite end of the transition on the shingle roof.
Snap a chalk line between the two transition marks on the shingle roof. The line extends 12 inches beyond the marks each way to establish the length of the transition flashing.
Remove two courses of shingles above the chalk line with a cleanup scraper. Do this by inserting the blade of the scraper under the shingles and prying upward on the handle until the roofing nails pull loose. Remove any nails that remain at the roof sheathing with a nail bar.
Patch all nail holes in the roofing paper where the shingles were removed with roofing mastic.
Install the carport roof panels, starting from the outer end of the carport roof frame. Install the final section of panels starting at the roof transition, and overlap these panels at least 4 inches onto the final section of carport roof panels. This ensures that water sheds correctly.
Install one or more full-length pieces of transition flashing, as needed, to span the transition where the shingles were removed. The lower edge of the flashing rests atop the final section of carport roof panels. Overlap any two adjoining pieces of flashing 12 inches. Cut a piece to length, if necessary, with sheet metal cutters.
Position the flashing with the lower edges atop the carport roof panels along the transition. Nail the upper edges of the flashing to the roof sheathing where the shingles were removed with 6-penny galvanized roofing nails and a hammer or roofing hatchet. Space the nails 8 inches apart.
Reinstall two courses of shingles across the transition and atop the upper edge of the flashing. Make sure the upper ends of the shingles at the upper course slide under the uninterrupted course of shingles above. Fasten the shingles in place with roofing nails at each shingle.
- Many older shingle roofs did not include roofing paper underlay as part of the roofing system. Consult a qualified contractor for recommendations on flashing the transition at these roofs.
- Take care not to damage the roofing paper as you remove the shingles. If necessary, install a layer of roofing paper atop the original paper to seal tears or larger holes.
- Always use a stepladder or extension ladder that is large enough allow safe access to the shingle roof.
- Do not attempt to carry heavy materials up a ladder. Enlist the help of an assistant to hand materials up from the ground.
William Machin began work in construction at the age of 15, while still in high school. In 35 years, he's gained expertise in all phases of residential construction, retrofit and remodeling. His hobbies include horses, motorcycles, road racing and sport fishing. He studied architecture at Taft Junior College.
How To Build a Carport Roof
This step by step diy project is about how to build a carport roof. After building the frame of the carport, you need to attach the gable ends and the roofing. Make sure you take a look over PART 1 of the 3 car carport plans, so you understand what is needed to build the structure from the very beginning. Take a look over the rest of my woodworking plans, if you want to get more building inspiration.
When buying the lumber, you should select the planks with great care, making sure they are straight and without any visible flaws (cracks, knots, twists, decay). Investing in cedar or other weather resistant lumber is a good idea, as it will pay off on the long run. Use a spirit level to plumb and align the components, before inserting the galvanized screws, otherwise the project won’t have a symmetrical look. If you have all the materials and tools required for the project, you could get the job done in about a day.
Projects made from these plans
Building a Carport Gable Roof
Building a 3 car carport
- D – 16 pieces of 3/4″ plywood – 48″x96″ long, 4 pieces – 48″x48″ long, 8 pieces – 45 3/4″x96″ long, 2 pieces – 45 3/4″x48″ long ROOF
- E – 1×6 lumber GABLE ENDS
- F – 4 pieces of 2×6 lumber – 141 3/4″ long OVERHANGS
- G – 800 sq ft of tar paper, 800 sq ft of asphalt shingles ROOFING
- H – 4 pieces of 1×6 lumber – 192″ long TRIMS
How To Build a Carport Roof
Fitting the roofing sheets
Fit the 3/4″ plywood sheets to the roof of the carport, starting with the bottom left side of the structure. Align everything with attention and secure the sheets into place with 1 5/8″ galvanized screws. Leave no gaps between the components for a professional result and continue the process till you have covered the whole structure.
Fitting the side trims
Attach the 1×6 trims to the front and to the the back of the carport to cover the ends of the rafters. Use 2″ brad nails to secure the trims into place.
Building the gable ends
Use 1×6 slats for the gable ends of the 3 car carport. Cut both ends of the slats at 30 degrees before securing them into place with 2″ brad nails.
Building the overhangs
Build the overhangs from 2×6 lumber. First, you need to make 30 degree cuts to both ends of the overhnags using a saw. Smooth the edges with sandpaper.
Cutting the overhangs
Next, you need to make a cut to the bottom of the overhangs, as shown in the diagram.
Fitting the overhangs
Fit the overhangs to the sides of the carport, over the gable ends. Align everything with attention, drill pilot holes and secure them into place with 3 1/2″ screws.
Fitting the roofing
Install the roofing felt, starting from the bottom left of the roof. Secure the paper to the roofing, using a stapler. Make sure the tar paper overlaps at least 2”. Don’t forget to cover the top ridge with a 14” strip of paper .
Start the first course of shingles with a full tab, the second with 2 1/2 tabs, the third with 2 tabs, the forth with 1 1/2 tabs, the fifth with 1 tab, the sixth with half tab and the seventh with a 3 tabs.
Build a 3 car carport
Last but not least, you need to take care of the finishing touches. Therefore, fill the holes with wood and after it dries out even out the surface with 120-220 grit sandpaper. Apply a few coats of stain or paint to protect the components from the elements and to enhance the look of your new carport.
Triple carport plans
This 20×32 carport is roomy enough for 3 cars, so its the perfect project is you want to keep the costs down while protecting them from the elements. You can easily add lattice panels to the sides and to the back of the carport. The panels will act as privacy screens and it will further protect your cars from rain and snow.
Building a large carport
You can adjust the size of the carport so you fit as many cars as you want. This project is easy customizable to your particular needs. Remember that you need to adjust the size of the components so they suit your particular own needs and you have to check the local building codes before starting the building process. Read PART 1 of the project to see how to build the frame of the carport.
This woodworking project was about how to build a carport roof. If you want to see more outdoor plans, check out the rest of our step by step projects and follow the instructions to obtain a professional result.
Shingled Roof Metal Carports
A traditional shingled-style roof offers classic carport styling. You’ll find shingled roof metal carports designs in a variety of sizes at 84 Lumber.
These classic shingled roof kits come with fiberglass roofing shingles and everything you need to build an open front and back carport that will last for years to come.
- 6"x6" treated posts
- 2"x6" treated skirt boards
- 2"x6" wall girts – 2' o.c.
- 2"x10" double truss carriers
- 4'x8' grooved siding
- Eave overhangs
- Roof trusses – 2' o.c.
- Roof trusses – 2' o.c.
- Ridge vent
- 7/16" OSB roof sheathing
- Plywood clips
- #15 roofing felt
- Fiberglass roofing shingles
- Drip edge
- Aluminum soffit & fascia
- Hardware & fasteners
(8', 10', or 12' high)
*Due to code restrictions these packages are not available in AZ, CA, FL. NV.
[quote=“shangle nailer”]Unless you have equipment for a torch down that will be difficult. Get the self adhering. Sounds like you will only need one square. Get a base sheet, fasten with steel cap nails, and stick cap sheet to it. Put Drip edge around on top of base sheet and hit it with an asphalt primer before you stick cap to it. Sounds like you will need a piece of flashing where it hits the shed too.
You could also see if you could find a piece of scrap EPDM big enough to cover the whole thing. Glue it down.[/quote]
Whoa! I don’t know that I would suggest a non-roofer install a peel-n-stick system.[/quote]
Yeah, maybe you’re right. It’s really not that hard though. He’s got no penetrations so it should be a piece of cake. check out Certainteed’s install instructions for Flintlastic, its pretty cut and dry. Or you could just put 3 tabs on it and it will probably be fine. If you do that use HDG nails.
Roof carport with shingle
The trouble is the metal roof's profile. It would be easier if it were smooth (flat).
My instinct tell's me that it would be best to tuck a strip of 30 weight felt or rolled roofing under each roof rake (edge). Starting at the bottom by sliding 4 inches of the underlayment (felt) under the asphalt shingles and the metal roof. This will close the gap at the seam of the (2) roofs. Overlap each row by 2-4 inches.
Next you can either extend the metal roof onto the asphalt roof (if you have some). Overlap each roof with 24 inch length's and secure it as normal to the metal roof.
Or you can simply glob some roof patch down the length of the roof seam and press in a fiberglass mat followed by either metal flashing that is 4 inches past the seam on either roof (and nailed/screwed to each roof) or a strip of mineral roofing (rolled roofing).
The rolled roofing can be adhered to both roofs with rolled roofing cement which essentially glues it to the roofs surface. It should be nailed also.
answered Jan 17 at 21:07
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