Introduction: Fallout 2 Veterans Helmet Build
Ever since I read about pepakura helmets, I wanted to build my own. My first attempt was the classic master chief helmet, sadly I was not able to complete it since the cardboard material, I got was to thin and flimsy. My 2nd attempt was an Ironman helmet. Although I was able to complete it, I did not like the way it turned out. So I gave up on pepakura until I came across this link:
The problem I had with pepakura, is that I always end up with a flimsy looking build. I was not willing to work with fiberglass as we have kids running around the house. what I needed was something to make it solid enough to wear but does not require any special handling procedure or equipment. I read about plaster and glue sticks as alternatives and those are materials I was happy to work with
So here is my 3rd Pepakura build...Fallout 2 veterans helmet.
My friend updated this build and put up an antenna and LED lights. He also started wearing this together with the vest. :)
Step 1: Materials:
Stick with the basics: Pepakura files are available here:
or you can search on the web for other versions.
- x-acto knife
- glue gun / glue sticks (a lot of it)
- plaster of paris
- watercolor *optional
- spray paint (primer, clear coat, metalic silver and flat black)
- plastic sheet for the mask lens
- a shower hose or BX cable for the oxygen hose that will stick out of the gas mask.
- elmers glue
- instant glue
as with any pepakura builds, you print the files and cut them up, fold and stick them together. I found out that it's always easier to pick a portion of the build you want to start at first, cut those and assemble it. rather than cutting everything up and looking for the numbers that match. You can use elmers glue, instant glue or gluegun during assembly. I opted for the glue gun since it made the joints more rigid and stable. Although you really need to work fast with a glue gun.
Step 2: Fitting the Lens and Reinforcing the Joints
After everything has been assembled. It's time to make the lenses. I used an old red plastic sheet cover from a ring binded document I have, any clear plastic would also do. I used this as it was easier to cut. Dont glue it up yet, just see if it fits.
Time to get those glue sticks. what I did was go over every joint of the helmet (on the inside ofcourse) and fill every gap with the glue gun. This made the helmet sturdy enough to be worn. Another method suggested that you melt the glue sticks and pour it on the inside of the helmet. I'm sure that method would be better but as said we got kids running all over and having melted plastic is never a good idea.
You can now start putting plaster on the helmet. I was not able to get a photo of it, since working with plaster meant mixing and splattering. hard to press on a camera with plaster on your fingers. I also put elmers glue on the plaster mixture so it will dry faster.
After drying you need to sand off the rough edges.
Step 3: Spray on the Primer
Make sure the plaster is really dry. Go on and spray paint the whole thing atleast 2 coats. then go back and sand it off. You can either wait until you finished painting the helmet with flat balack before putting the foams in so it will fit on your head or put them on before you spray paint with flat black. I inserted and glued the foams before as flat black application since I wanted everything painted black.
Step 4: Accessorize
I got a lot of electronic junk, including old webcams and old cellular phones. took anything that was light enough to glue on the helmet. The blood red is actually water color (poster paint). I made a template for the logo and just spray painted using the silver paint. I spray painted the red poster color with clear coat just to keep it from fading. Yes, finally you can put on the lens. There you have it. :) Gave this to a friend who was into cosplay.
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Retro Tech Challenge
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Fallout NCR Ranger helmet build
First of all, I realize that this helmet/costume has been done many times before here over the years, so if it's inappropriate or repetitive please just let me know and I won't post anything more on this thread.
Picture of the helmet from the game:
Since I don't have a 3D printer I decided to do the pepakura and body filler method to create the big shapes of the helmet and use styrene sheet and other bits and bobs to build up the smaller details that are difficult to achieve with cardstock, such as the eye frames and circular mouth piece.
I started a few months ago, designing the model to make templates from. Now, I have no experience making 3D models so I used files made by Hugh from the 405th as a base (I found them to the most accurate the the in-game model compared to the other existing files). Then came many hours of clumsily modifying the model in Blender, printing off and building the pep model, going back into Blender to make changes and repeating the process until I was happy with it.
I have a big pile of card models of prototype pieces now!
The mask and neck piece are basically entirely different models to the originals now, save for a couple of shared faces. I simplified and cleaned up the side module from Hugh's one and the helmet part itself remains mostly unchanged.
I put together a mock-up using various test parts and taped on paper bits to visualize what the full helmet will look like:
Currently I have most of the final peps coated with epoxy resin and ready to have body filler applied. Once I've finished shaping/sanding I plan to make molds of the pieces and slush cast them in urethane resin for the final finished version. I haven't decided precisely what kind yet.
To solve a problem that's common in other NCR ranger helmets that I've seen of the helmet slipping around and down over the eyes I made the neck piece have "arms" that reach up to holes in the helmet part where rivets would be in the real one. The neck piece will then be attached to the helmet with machine screws of some kind. Not the most elegant solution but it works in the mock-up at least.
However, I need to know the wall thickness of the helmet when it's cast to be able to position the arms far enough away to meet up with the hole on the inside.
Does anyone know if there's a typical wall thickness to aim for with slush cast/rotocast helmets? I know It's not going to be super uniform due to the nature of it. I found people saying anything from 2-3mm all the up to 7-10mm, which seems extremely thick to me. Is 3-4mm about right? Sorry if it's an obvious question I don't have any experience with casting (or making props in general to be honest - this is my first one).
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