Lower unit leaking oil

Lower unit leaking oil DEFAULT

Watch your

watch your lower unit oil. On that motor, there are only two places any oil can come from. If your lower unit isn't losing oil or getting water in it, then it is unburned engine oil. Not a problem. But you might check your fuel mixture, or change oil brands to help it some. If your losing lower unit oil, or have water intrusion into the lower unit, you have a seal leaking. There is a seal on the prop shaft, and one on top of the gear housing under the water pump. Some of the smaller outboards do not have a seal on top of the water pump and some do, but this will not let oil leak out. Only the one on the prop shaft and on top where the drive shaft goes in will let oil leak out. Pull the drain plug on the bottom, under the gear housing, just enough to get a couple of drops out. Make sure the engine has sat at least a couple of hours. If you have any water in the lower unit it will be what comes out first. You only need to let out a few drops to check. If it has water in it, the oil is gone, or going, and you need to replace the seals. If you have to do this, don't waste time and money replacing one.

 

Sours: https://forums.sailboatowners.com/threads/black-oil-emanating-from-the-lower-portion-of-my-outboard.98056/

Put on your walking boots, and kick up a mess of rabbits on these three WMAs.

There are many questions I have been asked over the years, but there are some questions that seem to be asked over and over again. One of these has to do with the possibility of oil leaking from the lower unit of the engine.

It usually sounds something like this: “I have a 1997 XYZ two-stroke, 40-horsepower outboard. I ran my motor the other day since I had not run my boat in about a month and a half. The next day I noticed some very black oil that looked like it was draining from my prop down the skeg. It wasn’t a lot, but also not a little. I pulled my lower unit drain plug to inspect the lower-unit oil. The oil was very clean, like new. Could you tell me where you think this oil is coming from, and what I should do about it?”

The oil that this boater was seeing is probably partially burned 50:1 oil from the engine powerhead. This mixture of oil and carbon builds up in the exhaust chamber of the engine, and eventually will wash off and drain out. The result is a very black oily sludge coming from the propeller.

In order to be positive this is not oil from the lower unit, there are a couple of things that should be done. The first was already done when the owner checked his lower-unit oil by removing the oil drain screw and noting the condition and color of the oil.

As he stated, the oil was “very clean, like new.” This would be in contrast to the black oil leaking down the skeg, a fairly good indicator that the oil in question did not come out of the lower unit.

The second and much more reliable test would be to drain the lower-unit oil completely, and then test the lower unit for leaks using a pressure tester. The lower-unit pressure tester looks something like a bicycle air pump with a pressure gauge and a hose with an adaptor to allow it to be screwed into the oil drain hole in the lower unit.

Once the oil is completely drained and the pressure gauge is screwed into the oil drain hole, you would pump the gauge up to the prescribed air pressure, and monitor it to see if it leaks. Air pressure will leak out much faster and easier than oil; therefore, this is the most reliable test of the condition of all of the lower unit seals and O-rings.

Providing that the pressure test shows no leakage in the lower unit, remove the gauge, fill the lower unit with fresh oil and move on to the real cause of the black oil.

This boater did not indicate how long it had been since the engine had a tune-up. This black soot is usually an indication of an engine that is running too rich. This can sometimes be the result of an ignition system that is in need of some tender, loving care. Sometimes it can be as simple as just replacing the spark plugs.

Other engines may require more care such as replacing some of the ignition components because they are not performing up to specifications. It may also be stale fuel in the gas tank.

If the boat has not been run in a long period of time, then the gasoline becomes stale and loses some of its octane. This will cause the engine to become less efficient in burning the gas and oil mixture, which will result in the black oily residue in the exhaust chamber.

After performing a good tune-up, you would want to clean out the inside of the engine to remove any of this oily residue. The process of cleaning and de-carbonizing the inside of your engine is very simple. It does not require any special tools. You do not have to disassemble the engine block to do any of this cleaning.

All you have to do is purchase a can of engine de-carbonizing spray from your local dealer and follow the directions on the can. Most engine manufacturers sell this product. They all have a different name for it. Mercury calls theirs Power Tune, Evinrude calls it Engine Tune. I am not sure what name Yamaha gives theirs, but they also have one.

The process is fairly simple. You remove the air silencer from the front of your carburetors. This will expose the throat of each carburetor so that you can spray the cleaner directly into the engine. Make sure you have a suitable water supply to your engine, and run it for several minutes to get it up to normal operating temperature. You then increase your throttle in neutral to approximately 2,000 rpm.

At this point, you spray the cleaner directly into each carburetor throat. You will spray each carburetor approximately 10 seconds, and take turns from one carburetor to the next until you have used the entire can of cleaner. Now turn off the engine and let it set for approximately 15 minutes. Restart your engine, and let it idle for another 15 to 20 minutes to burn off the leftover cleaner and flush out that oily sludge.

This product not only cleans out the exhaust build up, but it also cleans gum and varnish build-up from the ring grooves on the pistons, and will help extend the life of your engine.

Milder weather is just around the bend. It is time to start considering spring tune-ups and other general maintenance for your boat motor and trailer. Don’t forget consultations with The Boat Doctor are always free.

If you have any questions about your rig, send an e-mail to [email protected]

JOIN THE CLUB, get unlimited access for $2.99/month

Become the most informed Sportsman you know, with a membership to the Louisiana Sportsman Magazine and LouisianaSportsman.com.

Sign Up Now

Sours: https://www.louisianasportsman.com/fishing/what-is-this-oily-sludge-beneath-my-prop/
  1. Central florida subaru dealers
  2. Moze build bl3
  3. Narcissistic collapse youtube
  4. Semi truck steel fenders
Scream And Fly Powerboat and High Performance Powerboating Discussion Forums - Powered by vBulletin
Scream And Fly Powerboat and High Performance Powerboating Discussion Forums - Powered by vBulletin
Aeromarine Research

User Tag List

  1. 01-05-2016, 12:28 PM#1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Prospect, KY
    Posts
    115
    Thanks (Given)
    32
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    14
    Likes (Received)
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

  2. Looks like excess mix oil, gear lube has a very different smell than pre mix. What does the level of the gearcase look like?


    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

  3. 01-05-2016, 01:31 PM#3
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Prospect, KY
    Posts
    115
    Thanks (Given)
    32
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    14
    Likes (Received)
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave StrongView Post
    Looks like excess mix oil, gear lube has a very different smell than pre mix. What does the level of the gearcase look like?


    Dave

    Man I sure hope it's excess mix oil. I'm not sure if I understand the second part of your question. As in should I check the fluid level in the lower unit? I'm planning on changing it anyway, perhaps this is a good time to do so. I'm more concerned that this may have caused a seal to go bad inside the lower unit.

    So if it is gear oil what would it be from?

    If it is 2 stroke oil then I guess I don't need to worry about it. But from what I could tell I think it was gear oil.

  4. Smell the oil does it smell like gear lube? You can check the gearcase level to see if its full or change it and see if any water is present. Fill it with Merc High Perf gear lube and run it and check if you get the same thing the Merc stuff is a dark green-blue color so easy to tell the diff.

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

  5. 01-05-2016, 02:48 PM#5
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Prospect, KY
    Posts
    115
    Thanks (Given)
    32
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    14
    Likes (Received)
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave StrongView Post
    Smell the oil does it smell like gear lube? You can check the gearcase level to see if its full or change it and see if any water is present. Fill it with Merc High Perf gear lube and run it and check if you get the same thing the Merc stuff is a dark green-blue color so easy to tell the diff.

    Dave

    OK... I'll change the lower unit fluid after work tonight.

    We are about to get some pretty cold weather on Sunday. (Kentucky) Do you think that this has to do with something freezing in this outboard?

  6. If the motor was all the way down nothing froze.

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

  7. 01-05-2016, 04:30 PM#7
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Prospect, KY
    Posts
    115
    Thanks (Given)
    32
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    14
    Likes (Received)
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Found this information:
    MASTERTECH'S Gearcase Tips
    SERVICE TIP: Are you suspicious that your gearcase is leaking because you see black oil "leaking" around the propeller or collecting on the garage floor under the lower unit? Relax, because 9 times out of 10 what you're seeing is simply the residual lubricating oil running down out of the exhaust housing. When the motor is running, the unburned oil (95% of it) gets mixed with the cooling water discharged into the midsection's exhaust tube. Here it collects as a foamy emulsion, especially if the motor was used for extended period at low speed. After you put it up, the water evaporates, leaving the oil to run down and out the weep holes and the exhaust hub.
    Best check first that the oil IN the gear housing is O.K., simply crack the lower screw and let a little out. It should be light to medium brown in color, and at least translucent.. Lighter, opaque and creamy colored indicates water intrusion. Inky black & burnt odor - - it's past due for a change. 100 % water, Bubbly grey-black gleep, under pressure, metallic colors, bad odors indicate serious problems. Unsure? Contact the Mastertech! At any rate, change the oil every 50 running hours using a high quality lube such as Evinrude-Johnson Ultra HPF or Mercury Premium Gear Lube and you shouldn't have any problems.



    I will say that this outboard ran VERY rich for most of the summer. It may have a significant amount of residual oil. But if you look at teh ground, that seems like a LOT. And it all happened over the past three days. Guessing it was coincidental that the only thing different about teh last few days has been the tempts.

  8. 01-05-2016, 04:52 PM#8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Asheville,NC.
    Posts
    422
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    2
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    22
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You certainly want to make sure there is no water in the gearcase before it gets below freezing, this could cause the gearcase to crack. I always change my gear lube in the winter before freezing temps get here. Hopefully it's 2-stroke, Give it the smell test.

  9. Generally what has been mentioned I agree with, what concerns me however is the hole below the water pick ups is in the same cavity which may indicate a drive shaft leak. I would drain and pressure check the lower.

  10. 01-05-2016, 06:02 PM#10
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Prospect, KY
    Posts
    115
    Thanks (Given)
    32
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    14
    Likes (Received)
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by racerView Post
    Generally what has been mentioned I agree with, what concerns me however is the hole below the water pick ups is in the same cavity which may indicate a drive shaft leak. I would drain and pressure check the lower.

    Where is the cheapest place to get the tool required for pressure checking the lower unit? (Wondering if I can make one) I have auto tools. And a good air compressor. Fuel pressure gauges and such. Hate to blow a couple hundred on a tool I will probably use just once.


    Additional info I found:
    That is a water drain hole. Since oil is coming out of it, then the driveshaft seals (very common) are worn and will leak oil out when the motor is tilted up then lowered. The seals sit under the waterpump plate and are in the water passageway so any oil leakage will gravitate (no pun intended) to the lowest point which is the drain hole.



    In my mind here is what I think has happened. I bet I have some water in the lower unit. I bet that it froze a bit and forced the lower unit oil out of the weep holes. I hope it did not damage any of the seals.

    My thoughts are that I need to drain the lower unit like right now and then worry about pressure testing and such on a warmer day.

  11. Is it gear lube or mix??? Smell it , rub it between yourt fingers , is it heavy or light .

  12. First thing to do is pull the drain screw before the vent screw. If no water comes outpull the vent drain it and refill with High Perf gear lube. If you see a bunch of water, refill it, pull the gearcase or wait till spring and take the whole boat to a good shop let them press test it. At least then you have peace of mind till spring.

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

  13. " ...last night it got down to 28*... ", that's a good one. We got down to -4F or -20*C in town without the windchill.
    Last edited by FMP; 01-05-2016 at 08:00 PM.

  14. 01-06-2016, 01:54 AM#14
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    central minnesota
    Posts
    770
    Thanks (Given)
    6
    Thanks (Received)
    30
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    24
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    by the way water will be on the bottom,oil floats on water.sample bottom plug---water will show up there FIRST... BUT it sounds like driveshaft seals pushed up. time to do a pump replacement anyway-th


Quick NavigationTechnical DiscussionTop
  • Site Areas
  • Settings
  • Private Messages
  • Subscriptions
  • Who's Online
  • Search Forums
  • Forums Home
  • Forums
  • Main
    1. General Boating Discussion
    2. Technical Discussion
    3. Photos and Videos
    4. Wildman's Garage!
    5. Four Stroke and Direct Injected Two Stroke Engines
    6. Props, Setup, and Rigging
    7. Bass Boats and Sport Fishing Rigs
    8. Fiberglass and Composites Discussion
    9. Boat Build-Ups and Restorations
    10. Electronics, Audio Systems, and Wiring
    11. Outboard and Racing History
    12. Racer's Hangout
    13. Jet Boats, V-Drives and Stern Drives
    14. International Performance Boaters
    15. Boating Safety and Safety Equipment
    16. Tow Vehicles and Trailers
    17. Radio Contolled Performance Boats
    18. Other Motorsports
  • Community
    1. The Scream And Fly Lounge
    2. Scream And Fly Team Membership
    3. Upcoming Events, Races, and Gatherings
    4. Media Creation - Photo and Video Discussion
    5. Computer and Forum Support
    6. Employment Listings
  • Appearance, Care, and Maintanence
    1. Appearance Mods
    2. Detailing and Care
    3. Custom Rigging and Metal Fabrication
  • Buy and Sell Marketplace
    1. Outboard Engines
    2. Lower Units
    3. Propellers
    4. Propellers Wanted
    5. Misc. Parts and Accessories
    6. Hulls up to 20'
    7. Hulls larger than 20'
    8. Stern Drive /Jet Units, Engines, and Parts
    9. Hulls Wanted
    10. Engines Wanted
    11. Parts Wanted
    12. Tow Vehicles and Trailers
    13. Non-Marine Items
    14. Ebay Listings and Other Internet Listings
  • Paying Advertiser Marketplace
    1. Paying Advertiser Sales and New Products
    2. Group Purchase Requests
  • Events and Gatherings
    1. Televised Races and Events
    2. Events!
  • Scream And Fly Polls
  • Forum Support
    1. Posting Questions and Suggestions
    2. Maintenance
Frank Mole Transport
Sours: https://www.screamandfly.com/

Oil leak between the lower unit and where it joins the upper unit

Good evening , my name is Joe and I recently (19 July) purchased a 1987 198F with a Mercruiser 165 4 cylinder married to an Alpha One stern drive serial number OB712228.
The motor runs magnificently and all of the functions on the stern drive work as they should. I wanted to make sure everything was good to go before putting it in the water so I went to my local marina and asked for the maintenance that I needed to do prior to putting it in the water. So far I have gone through and changed the oil in the motor, did a tune up (plugs, wires, cap and rotor), changed the oil in the stern drive and then asked on the Chaparral forum for additional maintenance that is recommended before splashing. I was told to change the water pump in the stern drive, which I am going to do this weekend. This is where I encounter my first problem, I am not entirely sure which is the correct water pump kit that I need to order. I would prefer to purchase one that has any and all seals that I should change while I am in there. Any direction that you can give in regards to the right kit would be greatly appreciated. Now on to my second and probably biggest problem... I pulled the boat to my father in laws house which is 2 blocks from my house to detail the boat and do some cosmetic maintenance. I had the stern drive in the trailer position for the trip, but when I walked around to the back of the boat upon arrival, I noticed an oil leak at the location indicated on the picture I have attached. You will be able to see the chunk of aluminum missing and this is where the leak was. It was a very small and slow leak, enough to trail down the lower unit and leave about 10 drops on the concrete. I saw the damage but no leak, when I purchased the boat and asked my local boat center if this was a serious problem and they told me not to worry about it, as it was probably damage done by hitting something in the water. I am starting to second guess the information they gave me and am once again looking to the forum members for help. So I guess my question is this a serious dilemma or possibly a seal/gasket issue that I can repair when I go in to change the water pump and seals. I deploy 15 August and really want to get my boat in the water before I have to lay it up until I return next April. Thank you in advance for any help and advice that you can give me.
leak.JPG

 

Sours: https://forums.iboats.com/threads/oil-leak-between-the-lower-unit-and-where-it-joins-the-upper-unit.550184/

Leaking lower oil unit

We stood right at the front door, and I fucked my lover in the mouth. I fucked and fucked, but from overexcitation I could already finish. then I began to jerk off, and Igor stood on his knees before me and waited.

Johnson Outboard Lower unit Oil leak info

Exactly the same voice !!. I have a little flask whistling, right off the bat, quite frankly and not really filtering, I answer into the receiver. Not critical.

Similar news:

Then, when the children were sitting cleanly, who ate chips, and Katya and her friend were chatting. Katya: I went to the shower yesterday, undressed, forgot shampoo. Me: Oh, I could have called me, I would have brought it to you, lathered you. Katya: I would walk through the whole hotel naked to call you.

Then they chatted, and I did not look away from my breasts, I offered to take off my topic so as not to suffer.



10431 10432 10433 10434 10435