The Speeduino Miata / MX5 Plug N Play (PNP) box is designed for easy installation on the 1.6L NA6 vehicles using the 48-pin ECU. This is all 1.6L models from 1989 through 1993 and some 1.6s up to 1995.
The stock ECU for these vehicles have a 2 plug loom connection and look like the below:
WARNING: Note that some changes to the stock hardware configuration are required with this unit. In particular, please see below in the fuel pump section for details that must be understood prior to starting
The PNP box plugs straight into the stock wiring in place of the original ECU, however some hardware changes are either recommended or are desirable in most installations.
Most significantly, Speeduino does not operate with the stock AFM on the NA6 engine. This unit can either be retained or removed, but if being kept in place, the connector to it should be disconnected.
For a load reference, it is strongly recommended to run a manifold pressure line to the Speeduino PNP box. This allows Speeduino to run in the default Speed-Density configuration and is usually a fairly easy installation. The unit comes with a built-in MAP sensor that supports up to 1.5 Bar of boost (250kpa absolute pressure), but is compatible with other external sensors if more pressure is required.
The 1.6L cars typically come with a suitable MAP port near the throttle body that is capped off in stock form and is generally the easiest place to take the manifold pressure reference.
5mm or 6mm vacuum hose should be used and there are multiple original holes in the firewall where this can be run.
Manual NA6s come with a switch only TPS that provides limited feedback to the ECU. It is highly recommended to replace this with a Variable TPS (VTPS) that provides a signal indicating the current throttle position. The original wiring can be used with any 3 wire VTPS
Note: If a VTPS is NOT being fitted, the stock TPS should be disconnected and a 1k resistor placed between the signal line and ground to prevent erratic acceleration enrichment at full throttle.
In the stock configuration, inlet air temperature is provided by a sensor in the AFM. If the AFM is retained then this sensor will work if jump wires are run from the AFM to the disconnected connector (See image below), however as most setups elect to remove the AFM, an additional sensor needs to be added. The recommended sensor is the GM open air IAT that is common to many GM vehicles. Part number for this is #25036751 and it can be found fairly cheaply from many online sources, including the Speeduino store (https://speeduino.com/shop/index.php?id_product=23&controller=product)
The 2 wires from this sensor can be pinned directly into the AFM connector on pins 1 and 6 (It does not matter which wire goes to which pin):
¶ Wideband O2 Sensor
Whilst not mandatory, the installation of a wideband oxygen sensor and controller is strongly recommended. Any wideband controller that outputs a 0-5v signal is supported and calibration for common controllers can be found in the Tools->Calibrate AFR Table dialog.
The wideband analog output signal should be connected to the original O2 sensor wire. This has a convenient connector in the engine bay, located just next to the coils. This can be found by following the wire from the original sensor. If not reusing the original narrowband sensor, the connector can be cut from this and attached to the wideband signal.
The stock ECU does not perform any fuel pump control as this is taken care of by the AFM. Speeduino however can control the fuel pump through the original wiring, but requires the removal of the ST_SIG fuse. Failure to remove this fuse prior to powering the unit on will trip the smart FET that is used on this line, but should not cause permanent damage if only performed once or twice.
The fuse to be removed is found in the engine bay fuse block:
If the above method of fuel pump control is either not desirable or not available, an alternative driver wired to pin 2O on the main connector that can be used for this. Pin 2O originally carries the AFM signal, however as Speeduino does not use this (And the AFM must be disconnected) it can be used to carry the fuel pump control.
To do this, a jumper wire is required on the AFM connector per the below:
Once the above jumper is in place, the fuel pump pin in TunerStudio should be set to A9.
Wiring on the 48-pin 1.8 (NA8) models is largely identical to the 1.6 (NA6) however there are some minor differences. In addition to other points on this page, the following should be observed for 1.8 setups:
- Fuel pump output pin should be set to A9
- If the tacho doesn't work, set the tacho pin to 49 and add a jumper to the pins labelled 'Tach' on the board (Just above R56)
- If the TPS reading is fixed at full open/closed and you have a heated rear demister, you may need to remove/cut wire 2L. This should only be done in this specific case and it is unlikely to affect most cars.
¶ Configuration and start
It is strongly recommended to start by using the NA6 base tune that is available through SpeedyLoader.
The stock sensors can use preset calibrations within TunerStudio. The following values should be used if the stock sensors are retained:
Stock Coolant Sensor (CLT) - RX-7_CLT(S4 & S5)
Stock inlet air sensor (IAT) - RX-7_AFM(S5 in AFM)
Speeduino Mazda MX5 (Miata) Mk1 PnP ECU 48 Pin (2 Plug)
Professionally assembled V1.3 Speeduino Mazda MX5 48 Pin ECU.
Now supporting 1.8 engines as well as 1.6.
Full metal enclose with 6mm vacuum barb to internal 2.5 Bar MAP sensor.
Will be shipped with the latest firmware and base map.
Tuned with Tunerstudio.
Some hardware changes are required in the car for optimal running.
For installation details see:https://speeduino.com/wiki/index.php/MX5_PNP
Speeduino is an open source project, I do not own Speeduino, I am just an official reseller.
Speeduino is a project as well as a product, it is still in continuous development.
So there are still features and improvements being added monthly.
If you are looking for a polished product with strong dedicated support, you may wish to consider other options.
|Add IAT Kit +£15|
|Add MAF Delete Harness +£12|
|Add Boost Solenoid Kit +£35|
|Add TPS Kit +£55|
Originally Posted by miataturd
I get what you are saying. yes Im MS, NO i dont use any of the really advanced features. Here is what I did- make your cells above idle with increasing rpm a little more rich. from what I found, if you try to keep those lean, like 14's, it will require a TON of AE. that will make tuning in other areas difficult. My current tune, I have made those low RPM areas pretty rich, 11.5-8's, then it took wayyyyy less AE to fix that crap throttle response.
dont pay much attention to the AFR gauge (IMO) with those quick blips in throttle. There is just a lot lof noise, late sensor response etc. going on. A ton of unburnt fuel could show up as lean. sometimes.
lesson- if you need 200% more fuel to fix your problems, your tune needs work, not AE.
Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely start off with no AE and tune from there. I believe one of my biggest issues is going too lean at idle, like you mentioned. I was tuning to 14.7 to attempt reasonable mpg's, particularly in traffic. What you're saying makes sense, I'll see if it solves the issue.
Join Date: Apr 2018
If you are interested in one try downloading the base tune from their site and take a look at it in Tunerstudio to see what options you have for tuning the car. They are impressive for their price especially for the PnP variant, but it of course has some things missing that megasquirts come with standard. My biggest gripe with it is the lack of an A/C idle up feature that works without modifying the speeduino, really kills it for me living in FL.
Something a bit more in the middle in terms of price between something like the MS3PNPPro is the MS3 Mini, I would recommend it if you wanted a cheaper computer with pretty much identical abilities to the MS3Pro.
2002 Hard S / MS3 Basic / SuperMiata Intake / Squaretop / RS4 Muffler / Cobalt Midpipe / JR 4-2-1 Header / Hardtop / 450/300 Bilstein Coilovers
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