Logitech g27 repair

Logitech g27 repair DEFAULT

Logitech G27 Repair

The Logitech G27 is an electronic steering wheel designed to connect to the PC, Playstation 2, or Playstation 3 via USB cable. Its main features include a leather steering wheel with full force feedback, a shifting mechanism, and a set of pedals.

For information on troubleshooting the G27, please read our troubleshooting page.

The Logitech G27 is an electronic gaming steering wheel for driving and racing simulators. The steering wheel is wrapped in leather and includes six programmable buttons, steel paddle shifters, and an LED shift indicator. The steering wheel features a smooth helical gear and a dual-motor force feedback system to realistically simulate road and car conditions. The six-speed shifting module also has eight programmable buttons and a directional pad. The pedal board includes three pedals, for acceleration, braking, and clutch. Many of the included parts are made of stainless steel, and the whole assembly is made with durability and superb performance in mind.

The G27's predecessor was the G25 steering wheel, and though they look very similar, the two have a few differences. First, the G25 does not have the helical gear system that the G27 does. This gear system makes steering the G27 much quieter and smoother than the G27. Also, the G25 included a switch to change from 'H-pattern" shifting to sequential shifting that was removed in the G27 model. Other differences between the two include stainless steel pedals (compared to the G25's aluminum pedals), and real leather on the steering wheel instead of fake leather.

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REPAIR ONLY!!!! Logitech G27 Racing Wheel NO Calibration Board Repair

$79.00Buy It Now23d 22h, $5.99 Shipping, eBay Money Back Guarantee

Seller:boardbusters✉️(1,922)99.5%, Location:West Palm Beach, Florida, Ships to: US & many other countries, Item:264074386373REPAIR ONLY!!!! Logitech G27 Racing Wheel NO Calibration Board Repair. Visit Store Items For Sale Feedback Contact Us REPAIR ONLY! Product Description Please understand that you're NOT buying a board. This is for repair only! You will be sending your board in for repair after you make the purchase on ebay. Once that is done, send the board in and we will have it done in generally a day. Please follow the instructions on how the process works. Thank you! Mail bad boards in need of repair to: Board Busters 17253 Prado Blvd. Loxahatchee, Fl 33470 ABOUT US We've been in the appliance repair business for just under 20 years. We started in the 90's but as time went on, we noticed that appliances are equipped with many more computer components than in the past. In fact, many technicians have completely gotten out of the business due to that! But we adapted and began doing those repairs as well and over time, we added that skill set to our services. If you're in the Palm Beach area, we are available to come to your home to repair your appliance and if need be, take the bad circuit board with us for repair. Below you'll find an extensive list of boards we repair. Our goal is to earn your business through cheap pricing, decent turnaround time and overall good communication. Please send us an email with the picture of the board, model number and issue you're having and we'll tell you if it can be repaired. I can tell you that we are cheaper than the competition because we don't have a lot of overhead. I can also tell you that we replace the bad parts, test all and additionally replace more common parts that tend to go bad, even if they're still O.K. Our turn around time is 3-5 days, unless we need to order an odd relay or eeprom chip. If you need it done faster and we have everything we need, we'll put it in front of the rest of them. Just make note of that on the paypal receipt. The boards are checked thoroughly. The boards come with a 1 year warranty. You pay shipping only, we cover parts. So if you have an underlying problem that is the cause of the board repeatedly going bad, we'll fix the board for up to 1 year of payment date, if needed. Email with questions and thank you for your business! SHIPPING Please make sure that the board is the same in the picture. Look at the side with the relays, NOT JUST THE FACE PLATE. The board needs to be the same in order for our equipment to analyze it. For boards that are encapsulated in a shell, PLEASE remove the shell before mailing. It makes it lighter to ship and easier on us since we have to spend time figuring out how to remove them without hurting them. For us, it takes time due to the number of stuff we get in so please remove it. Thank you for your business! PAYMENT & RETURN PAYMENT ACCEPTED VIA PAYPAL Should there be an issue that is not repairable, for example the MAIN MICROCHIP which has proprietary information on it, we will return your board as well as a refund minus shipping costs and a small fee for our time to check the board out. That small fee is $10. The remainder will be refunded. *Note We have the tools necessary to thoroughly check all parts on the board, including the main microprocessors and you will know whether or not the board is good and can be repaired or if it's not repairable soon after receiving it. For any boards in METAL or HEAVY casings, please remove before mailing. If not removed, an additional charge will be invoiced based on the total additional weight of the board. Using the "self clean" mode WILL void your warranty. This option should not be used on any oven, much less an oven with a board that was worked on. It's dangerous and can damage the board. Thank you! PRIVACY POLICY We will not accept electronic part returns simply because it did not solve the problem you were having with your unit. There are no exceptions. No part can be returned without a valid return authorization number. Should you have any further concerns regarding this warranty, feel free to email us. Too many people abuse the system by purchasing our parts simply to "test" whether or not it's the broken part in their appliance. Also, please be aware that you WILL BE CHARGED a 20% fee if you make an error and purchase the repair thinking it is a physical board we're selling. Ebay dings us every time that happens and our ratings get knocked down and we can't sell as much, and are therefore forced to open a separate account. Ridiculous, I know! Trust me when I tell you that I've had my words with ebay in regards to this but we cannot continue eating it for folks who are too trigger happy and make purchases before reading the entire ad. So please, do not yell at me, do not send threatening messages, do not leave bad feedback, there is NOTHING I can do about it. And to make matters worse, ebay is UNWILLING to work with us on this so we're stuck. This comes with a 1 year warranty. That means that if the board should break within a year, we'll fix it at no cost. You pay shipping only back to you. We do not offer a refund because the board can break for any number of reasons after it's been repaired the first time but what we will offer you is a repair. For those of you who are not sure of whether or not to work with us because we have too little feedback, there is a reason for that. We actually have almost 100% rating but due to the customers accidentally purchasing "board repairs" thinking they were buying the actual board as well as our slow shipping times (we have to wait until we get the board in order to ship it back, not in our control), every month we get dinged a little bit more by ebay. We know it's not fair, we know they will eventually destroy your seller account because of this but they are not willing to help out or change the format in any way to facilitate us or others who sell services on ebay in anyway. If you would like to see our feedback, we are the same as "boardbusterzz" and "appliancesolutionz". We have quite a bit there to check out. Thanks for considering us! If you should purchase this service WITHOUT properly reading it and ask for a refund, there will be a 20% to cover ebay's seller fees, the fact that we're dinged every time that happens by ebay and other things that prove to be troubling when someone accidentally purchases an item. Please do not yell at us, do not get angry at us, do not try and fight us, these are ebay's policies, NOT OURS! Please do NOT send "signature required". It creates a LOT of issues where the board will end up sitting in the post office or ups for a couple of extra days due to the distance it takes to pick it up, our time restraints, etc. Don't worry about the board not arriving, we've only had one of those in over 1000 board deliveries. Thanks! IF YOU'RE NOT SURE WHETHER YOU NEED THIS PART OR NOT, DO NOT ORDER!!!! WE CANNOT TAKE RETURNS ON ELECTRONIC PARTS. WE HAVE TOO MANY PEOPLE MAKING MISTAKES, ORDERING THE WRONG PART, USING OUR PARTS TO TEST THEIR MACHINES, SWAPPING BAD FOR GOOD, OR ANY NUMBER OF RIDICULOUS ACTIONS. WE WILL NOT PUT UP WITH THIS NONSENSE AND WE WILL BE FORCED TO REPORT YOU AND LEAVE A BAD RATING. BE RESPONSIBLE ENOUGH TO DEAL WITH YOUR ORDER IF IT'S NOT THE RIGHT ORDER. YOU CAN SELL IT IF YOU WANT, YOU CAN KEEP IT AS A REPLACEMENT PART, YOU CAN RUN IT OVER IN YOUR CAR IF YOU'D LIKE BUT PLEASE DO NOT BURDEN US WITH YOUR MISTAKES. IT GETS EXTREMELY TIRESOME. THANKS FOR UNDERSTANDING!! If you get the board back but are still experiencing problems, PLEASE do not go to ebay and ask for a refund! We require a discussion as we might be able to solve it over the phone. There are many instances where a board has to be programmed after it's taken out, and if that's the case, we need to explain how to do so. Or, should there be something we missed, we will need to see the board a 2nd time. If you go to ebay, there are always additional issues, problems, etc. If you want to know what, then ask and we'll explain. In the end, if we cannot repair the board for whatever reason, simply tell us and we'll refund your money less shipping. THANK YOU FOR UNDERSTANDING!!! Read More FAQ How long will it take to repair your circuit board? Most circuit boards can be repaired in just a day or two. If you don't see your board on the list, please feel free to inquire about time and if your board is approved or not. Some boards we simply do not do. For example, boards with a layer of wax covering them are generally off our list of approved boards. What happens if you cannot repair my board? If your board cannot be repaired due to it having a bad processor or because the board is too badly damaged or if it just simply cannot be repaired, then we will refund your money less shipping back to you. If you'd like your board mailed back to you, you will have to pay for that. If you don't see your model's board on the list of approved boards or under your brand, then please contact us before you mail it in to confirm the repair. Do not just send it in without doing the aforementioned. Doing so may delay your return time and cause overall confusion on our end. Is there a warranty on the repair? All boards come with a 1 year warranty. What that means is that the board will be repaired again should something happen. But because the board's problem might be different from the first time around or because the board might be too badly damaged from a lightening storm or surge, we cannot refund your money. The only time a refund will be given is if the board cannot be repaired when it is mailed in the first time around. Don't worry though, if your board has a problem down the road after it was repaired, we'll do everything we can to get it back to norma! We only require that you cover shipping costs back to you. Is shipping included? Yes, shipping charges are included in the original purchase. You will only have to pay for return shipping costs should you ship it in after it is repaired for additional repairs. Can we talk to someone about our machine and the problems it's having? Yes, we understand that sometimes you might get stuck and may need our help. Each customer is treated individually and our lines are open for easy communication between ourselves and the customers. We simply ask that you do not abuse the our services and take up too much of our time. We've been known to spend a lot of time on the phone when customers are having issues or can't remove the board or are having an issue locating something. We don't mind helping, just call. FEEDBACK If you are happy with the product please leave positive feedback and we will automatically leave positive feedback for you. If there is something wrong with the product,you have received for any reason, please contact us first to resolve. Please avoid making negative feedback remarks, contact us first if you have any problems! We are here to help you ... CONTACT US Please ask us for the shipping address after you have made the purchase. Copyright © boardbusters | All Rights ReservedCondition:New, All returns accepted:ReturnsNotAccepted, Brand:Logitech, Platform:Sony PlayStation 3, Compatible Model:For Sony PlayStation 3, Color:Black, Maximum Number of Players:1, Item Weight:18.18lbs., Type:Racing Wheel, Connectivity:Wired, Manufacturer Color:Black, MPN:941-000045, MPN:941000045

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Introduction: Repair and Upgrade a Logitech G25/G27 Wheel

Hello Everyone,

This is my very first instructable of a serie I wish to be long and useful ! Please forgive my english which may sometimes be not so great,

Some of you may have this simulation driving steering wheel from Logitech. It is probably a bit outdated now, but it is really a nice wheel, precise and well manufactured. G25 is the oldest version, while G27 is a bit more recent. They both are basically the same, although I prefer the G25 since you can chose between manual sequential shifter and full manual transmission.

This tutorial will describe how I repaired it. Actually I did this a few years ago so I'm sorry if some pictures of the process are missing, I wasn't really thinking about making it an instructable at that time.

As usual, the safety tips: Take care with any hack involving electricity, If you die doing my instructable I'll be deeply sorry, but it will be Darwin's fault, not mine. This project is not especially dangerous though, I estimate your chance of survival to about 84%.

Step 1: Diagnosis

This steering wheel usually starts by calibrating itself, so that it finds automatically the center spot. In my case, I had two symptoms:

-After the calibration, the wheel was not centered

-While playing, the direction was impossible to control

-Sometimes it was unable to complete the calibration process

So if your steering wheel has this kind of problem, do not throw it away, there is still hope!

Calibration is done by traveling from one direction until the wheel hits the first endstop, then going backwards until it reaches the second endstop, then deducing the middle by counting the total steps between both divided by two. After opening the case, I found out that the number of steps was determined by a little "encoder wheel", similar to what existed in our computer ball mouses before IR diodes became the standard. This wheel is mounted directly on the shaft of one of the two motors.

I found out that the cause of all my problems was this little encoder wheel. Due to the heat of the motor, I guess the wheel got stressed out and finally splitted, so it was slipping on the motor shaft, thus missing steps.

Basically, the whole point of this instructable is to explain how to change/repair this wheel and how to prevent it from happening again.

Step 2: Tools and Stuff

If you just want to repair the wheel, you will not need much tools or things:


-A new encoder wheel: I ve designed mine on GIMP and inkscape and found a laser cutting company to help me cut the new one.

-Your hands

The main cause of the issues I had was that the wheel was running too hot, so I had to find a solution to keep the inside as cool as possible. I used the followings:

-two aluminium radiators with fans for 550 type electric motors, usually used for Remote Controlled cars

-A power switch

-a 5 volts power supply from a little transformer I had liying around

-some wires

-a soldering iron

-a dremel

Finally, I took this opportunity to try to improve a little bit the look by adding some carbon vinyl on the case as well as the gearbox flappy paddles. I didn't really like the cold feeling of the aluminium paddles while driving and moreover, I always thought that the fact that the pallets are turning with the wheel was really annoying because you sometimes don't know where they are. So I thought wrapping them with red carbon would make them more visible.

Actually, if I had to redo this thing again I would probably pick up different colors for each one, It would probably look ugly but it would prevent me from confusing down and up, which can happens sometimes since the wheel can steer up to 990 degrees.

You need:

-Carbon fiber vinyl

-A hair dryer

-a cutter knife

-some sand paper

I won't put the prices or links to the parts, It would not be relevant since I live in China, but all of those are pretty cheap and easy to find.

Step 3: Repairing the Wheel

First, tear apart the wheel.

I'm sorry for not having detailed picture nor process of this step, but it is actually pretty easy. The only tricky part is that you have to remove the steering wheel from the steering column to be able to open the case. All of this can be done with a long "cross screwdriver".

Once the case is opened, put the circuit motherboard face to you and look at the right motor. You will see a little plastic enclosure at its bottom. The encoder wheel is inside. Just remove the plastic cover, and then the little electronic circuit. Take care not to damage it during the process and put it aside.

Check if your encoder wheel can be repaired. The first time I repaired mine, I tried to put some loctite glue on the wheel. It worked for a while, but broke down again a few month later so I don't recommend this method.

The second time, I decided to go for a more durable solution and to have it laser cut. I ve considered 3D printing but the resolution would be impossible to get so you can forget that. I've recreated the encoder wheel using GIMP, then inkscape to have a scalable image that could be used by a laser cutting company.

You can download the files I've created on this instructable, bitmap or svg (bitmap is not scalable so I recommand you use the svg).

I then found a company specialized in laser cutting on the internet, asked them if they could cut me two pieces and sent them the file. The cost was 20 yuan (around 3 USD) for both.

The pieces were cutted on a quite thin aluminium sheet. The only problem is that you need some kind of flange to keep it from wobbling and to be sure it is attached firmly to the shaft. Any way of doing this could be fine, what worked for me was to reuse the old encoder wheel.

I've just used bi component epoxy glue to strenghten the old wheel, cut out the external perimeter with a flat screwdriver to only keep the middle part, then removed the endstop system of the driving wheel, disconnected the motors from the motherboard, then firmly secured the old wheel to the shaft.

Then, i used the steering wheel itself as a lathe: turning the steering wheel by hand makes the motors spins really fast and allows you to grind the old encoder wheel to give it the right shape for your flange. Just make sure that it is at the right size so that it doesn't overlaps the holes of the new aluminium encoder wheel.

I realized later that the aluminium of the new encoder wheel was too shiny and created some reflections of the IR beam, so what I've done later is to use a black marker to darken its surface. I suggest you to do that since it works fine.

Finally, use epoxy to glue your aluminium wheel to the flange you've created, and then the flange to the motor shaft, At this point, you need to make sure that your flange will be at the right distance on the shaft, so don't forget to check that the wheel will be at the right place relatively to the little circuit board! Put the circuitry back together, then all the plastic covers and you're good to go!

Step 4: Cool It Down!

I live in a country where summer is pretty hot, so my steering wheel was overheating a bit (which probably caused the issues I had) and the motors started to have this frightening characteristic smell of imminent electric failure...

So, I took the opportunity to improve a bit the cooling of my steering wheel.

This goes into 2 main steps:

-Creating vent holes in the covers for passive cooling

-Creating an active cooling using some little fans

Step 5: Create Holes

Take your dremel and grind the little fake holes on the top of the case to actually make them useful.

I don't know why Logitech bothered to put these holes in the first place, because most of them were obturated by plastic...

Step 6: Create Big Openings at the Bottom

These openings will allow quite a bit of air flow inside the cover.

they will also allwo you to have enough space to fit some of the components needed for the active cooling, such as the 5V alim and the sitch button.

Just take your Dremel again and grind the plastic properly, while taking care to not damage the tubes where the screws attach.

Step 7: Active Cooling: the Parts

As stated before, you need:

-One radiator and his fan per motor

-Red and black wires

-A switch (the one I took has a LED so I can see when it is On or Off)

-A little 5V AC/DC power supply, for the fans. You can take one from a small transformer since those fans do not use much power. Just try to find one which can fits inside.

-some plastic transparent sheet

-Little connectors (not necessary but it is easier to maintain in case you need to take the system apart

-Cutters, soldering iron

Step 8: Create a Little Support for Your Power Supply

I used some plastic transparent sheet to cut a box, with two ears that can feet between two of the original case screw locations. This way it is firmly hold in place after the cased is screwed back.

I tried to make as much holes as I could, to avoid heat.

The carbon look is purely decorative and has no other purpose whatsoever. No one will ever see it so if you're doing it this way it may be a good sign that you are insane.

Step 9: Install Your Switch

Find a nice spot to place your main switch.

Just drill a hole with the dremel or any other tool and secure the switch. Pretty straigt forward but you really need to make sure that you have enough space to put it, otherwise you will be in trouble.

Step 10: Install the Fans on Both Motors

Just slide the radiators into place. easy step but you may have to separate the motors from the chassis first, which is a bit time consuming.

Step 11: Create a Hole for 220V Input

Just use a hot soldering iron or any other tool to create a hole in order for the power cable to your 5V alim to pass through

Step 12: Wiring

Pretty easy, just connect both fans in parallel together, with the switch in between

Then, find some electric cable to connect your power supply to the 220V.

If you're not sure, just follow the hideous drawing and you should be fine.

Put your wheel back together and enjoy driving without the fried electronic smell!

Step 13: Pimp My Steering Wheel

For a more awesome look, you always can add some extra pimping to your wheel.

I used carbon fiber wrap vinyl, this way my steering wheel will definitely be lighter, making my driving much faster in video games.

For that, just buy some carbon vinyl, apply it preferably using a hair drier to soften it a little, then cut the excess using a carving knife or a cutter.

For the flappy paddles, I slightly sanded the edges wit some sand paper to make a better finish.

It's almost as easy to do as it is useless, but in the end I think it looks nice and moreover it fits well with my DIY PVC tubes driving seat (which will be part of an other instructable soon :))

Hope it will be useful to G25 or G27 possessors!

Sweet kisses

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Repair logitech g27

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